Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems by Tony Candela

Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems by Tony Candela

Author:Tony Candela [Candela, Tony]
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 978-1-61325-019-8
Publisher: CarTech Inc.
Published: 2009-08-14T16:00:00+00:00


The underhood fuse panel of the Mustang houses relays, MAXI fuses, and those fuses that power accessories connected to the battery directly. The fuse holder in the foreground is an aftermarket kit available at your local auto parts store.

The Mustang’s interior fuse panel is located under the dash and to the left of the steering column. To the left of the fuse box is the G.E.M. module that I refer to later in the book.

Most interior fuse panel covers have a built-in location for a fuse removal tool and spare fuses. The one pictured is from the Mustang.

I like to assume that the manufacturer of the vehicle has more knowledge of the wiring and accessories than I do. This means that I’m not going to replace a blown 20-amp fuse with a 30-amp fuse so it doesn’t blow again, because that may be exactly what happens. Worst case, this could cause a fire by exceeding the current capability of the wiring within that circuit. Most fuse panels have a spare fuse of each size in the panel itself or the fuse panel cover.

If you replace a blown fuse with the same size fuse and it blows again, then the fuse is doing its job! Obviously, this is an indication that there is a problem causing the fuse to blow. Chapter 7 explains how to find and solve this kind of problem easily.

Fuses: A fuse is a device that has a metal strip (or wire) with a known current limit. Exceed this limit and the fuse blows. All fuses have a current rating and typically the fuse can pass this current rating for an extended period of time before its metal strip burns in half. In fact, a fuse typically passes many times its current rating for short periods of time before its metal strip is burned in half.

Over the years, I’ve seen a bunch of different fuse types for automotive use, and these can vary widely between domestic, Japanese, and European vehicles. This book covers the main ones (glass and blade types) and all have the same intended purpose and that is to protect the circuit from damage. Keep in mind that even though two fuses may look similar and have the same current rating, they may react differently (slower/faster). These specifics can be determined via the three-digit alpha prefix that comes before the fuse’s current rating itself. (If you require that information, refer to the manufacturer of the fuse.)

Glass Fuses: Glass fuses used to be the norm and were available in a number of different physical sizes and values. If you own an older vehicle with such a fuse panel, you’d be well advised to have at least two of every fuse in the panel in your tool box so you can avoid searching for them if one blows. Although AGC fuses were the most common, your vehicle may require something different—double check both the rating and prefix to be sure and get the right ones.



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